Showing posts with label Marc Jacobs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marc Jacobs. Show all posts

9.07.2010

Marc Jacobs, 2005

Amy Larocca of New York Magazine wrote a quietly riveting article on Marc Jacobs in 2005 and I only stumbled upon it a few days ago. As is typical, I'm never interested in something immediately, and stashed it away in my left-of-the-screen-oriented menu bar for a rainy day. Obviously, the "rainy day" idiom is just that, but today it's pouring.

A few highlights:

On his clothes:
“It’s more psychological,” Jacobs says. “For people that don’t have any interest in the psychology of nuance, who need everything to be in their face, who don’t want to analyze . . . those aren’t the people I romanticize about dressing.”

“I don’t have any problem with what people refer to as sexy clothes,” Jacobs says. “I mean, everybody likes sex. The world would be a better place if people just engaged in sex and didn’t worry about it. But what I prefer is that even if someone feels hedonistic, they don’t look it. Curiosity about sex is much more interesting to me than domination. Like, Britney and Paris and Pamela might be someone’s definition of sexy, but they’re not mine. My clothes are not hot. Never. Never."

"I like romantic allusions to the past: what the babysitter wore, what the art teacher wore, what I wore during my experimental days in fashion when I was going to the Mudd Club and wanted to be a New Wave kid or a punk kid but was really a poseur. It’s the awkwardness of posing and feeling like I was in, but I never was in. Awkwardness gives me great comfort. I’ve never been cool, but I’ve felt cool. I’ve been in the cool place, but I wasn’t really cool—I was trying to pass for hip or cool. It’s the awkwardness that’s nice.”

“When I first moved here [Paris], my life was just like a frustrated version of what my life had been in New York,” Jacobs says. He didn’t (and still doesn’t) speak French. He didn’t like the food, the pace, the absence of multiethnic, all-hours takeout food. But, sober, he began to enjoy the city’s gentler rhythms: the quieter nightlife, the diminished options and temptations. Now his life is centered around two dogs and an apartment in a bougie corner of the 8th Arrondissement by the Champs de Mars, surrounded by families and diplomats and the odd tourist on his way to the Eiffel Tower. “I always get this certain anxiety when I’m in New York,” Jacobs says. “I see these billboards and Websites and movie openings and galleries and everyone’s like, ‘Have you seen Desperate Housewives? Have you seen The O.C.?’ I start hyperventilating. How can you stay on top of the art scene and what’s on TV, and read all those books? In New York, I just feel paralyzed by all that I’m missing. I feel stupid, uninformed. I don’t feel like that as much in Paris. It’s healthier for me.

[Ed. Around this time in 2005, everyone should recall the worldwide proliferation of neon-tinted Louis Vuitton prints printed on white or black traditional bags. They were designed by someone arguably more creative than Jacobs' himself, Takashi Murakami, who recently collaborated with Kanye West.]

“It’s not like I can make the Murakami moment happen again,” he says. “It’s not like if I went to the beach for a week and thought about it, I could come back with an answer. There are moments where it’s like, Oh, God, everything’s okay right now, but if I don’t come up with something soon, how are they going to feel about me then? This is the root of my psychological problems. There’s an exercise that I learned in therapy to be present, to be open to new experiences and then let go of the results. That’s what’s worked for me in the past. Of course, it doesn’t mean it’s going to work for me in the future."

“There are nights when I can’t sleep. I go into a fantasyland and tableau sort of thinking, like, Tonight would be the perfect night to say, ‘Honey, I’m really tired and worried about work. And tell me about your day. Do you think someone will read this and try to get in touch with me?” He looks hopeful. “If I read that about someone, I’d drop him a note.”

Well, my day was fine, Marc, what about you?


8.10.2009

Holy shit, "style!"

Quick little realization.

The term "style" is outdated and needs to be thrown out. It's connotations are too broad; if there can be good and bad "style," how can anything be "stylish?" Which is the worst phrase of all, because at one point in time Lisa Frank binders were stylish.

And "fashion," which is misused far too often within both the daddy's girls-with-money clique and the gay community, is so much deeper than style. And it is important. Fashion and clothing is important because it brings to the surface everything latent about a person. (That is, if they even care enough to get dressed, period.)

Are you religious? Slap on a Kabbalah bracelet, a cross necklace, the Star of David. Are you gay? It's incredibly easy to show your sexuality through clothing choice--or, as my incredibly dikey (yet entirely straight) friend Lauren puts it, "Let your rainbow flag fly." Are you smart? Are you a stoner? Are you a geek/into movies/into music?

Thoughts, aspirations, admirations, sexual longings--these are all shown through how we dress, like organs on the outside of your body. Your heart, your brain, even your stomach (those Dr. Pepper tees need to die) is on display when you throw on your unwashed button-up and mussy slacks.

So why would I buy $100 Marc Jacobs track pants? Because what he as a designer values--simplicity, volume, French culture, multiculturalism, innovation, New Americanism--part of me values, and therefore I'm giving away just a bit more of myself when I wear them. Maybe it's subtle, even unknown to the average person (the tags aren't on the outside. Obvious logos make the process of analyzing an outfit way too easy), but for people who care about dressing, who have tapped into that third-realm of perceptive communication--your only target audience--they get it. For the rest of 'em, it's like writing a sign in Japanese and expecting the Chinese to read it.

Viewed in this light, clothing becomes part of the machine, one of the cogs that drive us to our ultimate self.

8.07.2009

Marc Jacobs is a god, duh




Madonna, Joan Miro, and Marc Jacobs. These are the three people I admire most in my creative life. Above are a few selections he's releasing this fall. His concept of structure has no equal, nor does Kylie (the model in the middle image). Kylie's modified kimono must be seen in motion to be truly appreciated.

9.18.2008

NY Fashion Week is Over...


Marc by Marc Jacobs. Not near as brilliant as his spring or even fall 2008 collection, but at least he's moved away from his American Apparel Motif. I guess this is...American Eagle?

Michael Kors. He is such an underrated designer, even being as high-profile as he is. His collection for Bryant Park is stunning. Cutting-edge, relevant, but--more importantly--authentic. With this debut, I hope Kors is once against established as the best American designer of the era. (I mean, after Ralph Lauren, below.)

This is why Ralph Lauren is Ralph Lauren. He defines classic American elegance, and more than D&G or Versace--arguably the greatest fashion house in the world--he creates wearable designs that seem less as pretentious art pieces and more as timeless and versatile.

This is actually from Leanne (something?), one of the finalists from this year's horrendous Project Runway. Where's Christian Siriano when you need him? No matter, though, as these designs are beautifully draped and flawlessly constructed--so much so, however, that "constructed" seems innapropriate here. The color is nothing cutting edge (maybe a bright lipstick red, a la Michael Kors, would be preferable), and the silhouettes are a bit overused, but still, I predict Leanne (something?) will win this year.

4.24.2008

More Marc + A little Adam

I'm starting to think Bluefly is a mistake altogether.

I've ordered around ten different items from bluefly.com, and only a handful of those have I kept. However, concerning my two most recent orders, I'm sort of on the fence.

1. White "running shorts" from Adam.


In total, they only cost around $35, and I think they fit great, but it all depends on how willing I am to spend $35 on cotton running shorts...the shorts have great details, as well, but the waist is maybe 1/2" too small.

Chances of keeping the Adam whities: 85%



2. Marc by Marc Jacobs "Hollow Black" blazer

Now, I really like the fit of this from the front. It's got the signature Marc Jacobs shoulder (raised and square-cut), but the sewing is kind of shabby in my opinion. I'm not sure about the color, either. What can I wear with this? My dark sevens are such a severe blue the jacket looks green on top of them. I could wear them with black denim, maybe, but I don't own black denim and this jacket isn't great enough to warrant a purchase like that.

On top of this "what goes" conundrum, I spent nearly $200 on something I feel is not worth that much. And that was after a 70% drop in price. I have 90 days to return the jacket, which is plenty of time to gather opinions and see if a good ironing job takes out all the kinks.

Chance of keeping the Marc blazer: 30% (chances I'll feel ripped off either way: 95%)

4.18.2008

Marc Jacobs drove me to this

I ordered a Marc Jacobs cropped wool jacket off Bluefly a week ago and it just came in today. The tag read "M" for medium (which is strange for moderately high-end clothing--usually 34" or 36" would be printed on the label), but the jacket fit way more like an "XS." The arm holes were far too small, and the buttons did not reach across my chest. I'm not a bodybuilder or anything. My arms are small, if anything, and my chest certainly has the narrow, Marc Jacobs fit. Below are some pictures of the failed jacket.

The cut looks very feminine until you put it on. Unless you're a girl. Then I guess it still looks feminine.

Anyways, I bought a Marc Jacobs blazer instead and am sending this one back.